Buying Your First LAMS Bike? What to Check on a Used Motorcycle (That You Wouldn’t Check on a Car)

Passing your pre-learner course and shopping for your first LAMS (Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme) bike is a massive milestone. Whether you’re eyeing off a Kawasaki Ninja 400, a Yamaha MT-03 or R3, a Honda CB500F, or a cruiser, it’s easy to fall in love with shiny fairings and a loud exhaust.

Here’s the trap: Learner bikes live a uniquely hard life. Some change hands several times in a few years. That means stalled engines, botched driveway drops, skipped services, and neglected chains are super common.

And unlike a car—where four wheels and a steel cage hide a lot of sins—a mechanical failure on two wheels isn't just expensive; it’s dangerous.

📋 Inspecting a bike soon? Open & Print our Free A4 Used Motorcycle Inspection Checklist → to take with you!

Before you hand over your cash, here is the ultimate step-by-step guide to inspecting a used motorcycle in Australia, written in plain English so you know exactly what to touch, pull, and listen for.

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Step 1: Do Your Homework Before You Leave the House

Before you waste your Saturday driving across town, run a check on the bike from your couch:

• Confirm it’s actually LAMS-approved: Don’t just take the seller’s word for it. If a bike has had an aftermarket ECU flash, a derestriction kit fitted, or does not meet local approved-model and modification rules, it may affect learner eligibility and insurance; confirm local rules and cover with your authority and insurer.
• Run a VIN/PPSR & Model Faults Check: Just like cars, motorbikes frequently have finance owing on them or sit on the Written-Off Vehicle Register (WOVR) after being slid down the road and rebuilt in a shed. You also want to know if that specific year and model is notorious for stator failures, cam-chain tensioner rattles, or slipping clutches before you inspect it.

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Step 2: Spotting Hidden Drop & Crash Damage

Almost every seller of a learner bike will tell you: "A previous owner just dropped it stationary in the driveway." Sometimes that’s true. Sometimes it slid down the highway at 80km/h. Here is how to tell the difference:

• Check the "Touch Points" first: If a bike tips over, five things hit the ground first: bar ends, brake/clutch lever tips, mirrors, footpegs (and the little "hero blobs" underneath them), and exhaust shields. Scuff patterns can suggest a fall or slide, but do not prove the speed or circumstances.
• Inspect the Steering Lock Stops (Crucial!): Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and right and look under the bottom triple clamp (where the front forks meet the frame neck). There are small metal tabs on the frame that stop the bars from hitting the fuel tank. Damaged stops are a serious warning sign. Stop the purchase until an independent mechanic assesses the frame and steering.
• Mismatched Paint & Aftermarket Fairings: Look closely at the plastics in the sunlight. Do the reds, blues, or blacks on the side fairings match the fuel tank? Cheap replacement fairings often have slightly thinner plastic, mismatched paint shades, or panels that don’t quite clip together flush.

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Step 3: Bearings & Suspension (The Hidden Money Pits)

On a car, you rarely think about bearings until a mechanic mentions them. On a motorbike, worn bearings can affect handling and roadworthiness. Inspection requirements vary by state or territory.

1. Steering Head Bearings

These sit inside the neck of the frame and allow you to steer smoothly. If a bike has been ridden over big potholes, had the front wheel slammed down, or sat in the rain, these develop a "notch" right in the centre.

• How to test: Only have a competent person check this with the bike securely supported on suitable equipment. Never tilt it on the side stand or improvise a lift. Ask an independent mechanic if you lack equipment or experience. Next, slowly turn the handlebars from full left to full right. It should glide like butter. If it feels like the bars want to "click" or "settle" into a groove right in the middle, the steering head bearings are notched and need professional assessment and a current repair quote.

2. Wheel Bearings

• How to test: Have a competent inspector check both wheels for abnormal play or clicking with the bike securely supported on suitable equipment.

3. Swingarm Bearings

The swingarm holds the rear wheel to the frame and pivots up and down with the rear shock.

• How to test: Ask a competent inspector to check for abnormal play with the bike safely supported. If there is side-to-side movement where the swingarm bolts to the middle of the frame, have the bearings and mountings assessed; movement alone does not identify which part needs repair.

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Step 4: Tyres (Why Bike Tyres Wear Differently to Cars)

Motorcycle tyres are expensive, and old, damaged or worn rubber can compromise grip and handling.

• "Squared-Off" Rear Tyres: Motorcycle tyres should have a smooth, round curve from edge to edge so the bike leans cleanly into corners. If a bike has only been ridden in straight lines on motorways, the centre of the rear tyre flattens out into a square ledge. When you try to lean a squared-off tyre into a roundabout, the bike will feel like it resists turning and then suddenly "falls" into the corner.
• Cupping & Uneven Wear: Run your flat hand along the tread of the front tyre. If the rubber blocks feel bumpy, feathered, or sloped like saw-teeth, ask a mechanic to check tyres, pressures, balance and suspension; the wear pattern alone cannot identify the cause.
• Check the Tyre Date Code: Lots of learner bikes sit in garages for years with plenty of tread left. Look on the sidewall for a 4-digit oval stamp (e.g., 2420 means the 24th week of 2020). Tyre age is not an automatic five-year roadworthiness failure. Follow the tyre maker’s advice. Michelin recommends annual professional inspection after five years of use and precautionary replacement at ten years from manufacture. Replace damaged or deteriorated tyres sooner and get a current quote.

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Step 5: Chain, Sprockets & Driveline Noises

Unless you're looking at a shaft-drive or belt-drive cruiser, the chain and sprockets transfer all the engine's power to the tarmac. How clean the chain is tells you immediately how much the owner cared about the bike.

• The "Shark Fin" Sprocket Test: Look closely at the metal teeth on the rear sprocket. Healthy sprocket teeth look symmetrical, like the top of a picket fence. Worn-out teeth get hooked, pointy, and curved in one direction—just like a shark’s fin.
• The Chain Pull Test: Go to the very back of the rear sprocket (at the 3 o'clock position) and try to pull the chain straight backward off the teeth with your fingers. Noticeable lift suggests wear, but use the model’s service-manual limits for diagnosis. Have a mechanic assess the chain and both sprockets and quote the work.
• Look for Kinks & Rust: Look along the bottom run of the chain. Do all the links sit in a straight line, or are some stuck in a zig-zag (frozen links) because the rubber O-rings have dried out?
• Listen for Driveline Noises: When the bike is rolled forward in neutral (engine off), listen closely to the front sprocket area (down by your left foot) and the rear hub. Rhythmic clanking, grinding, or uneven tension as the wheel turns needs professional assessment; do not assume one cause. Keep hands clear while the wheel or bike moves.

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Step 6: Electrics & The "Cold Start" Rule

Motorcycle electrical systems are compact and sensitive to bad DIY modifications (like cheap eBay LED indicators or dodgy tail-tidies).

• Insist on a Stone-Cold Engine: Before the seller puts the key in, ask the seller to leave it cold. Do not touch engine or exhaust parts to judge temperature; hot parts can burn you. If it’s already warm, ask why. Sellers often warm up a bike before you arrive to hide a dying battery, hard cold-starting, or cold-start timing chain rattles.
• Test Every Single Switch: Turn the ignition on and systematically test:
  • Low beam, high beam, and the high-beam pass trigger.
  • Left and right indicators (front and back)—unusually fast flashing can indicate a lamp, wiring or compatibility fault and needs investigation.
  • Both brake switches: Squeeze the front brake lever and check the tail light brightens. Then let go, and press the rear foot brake pedal—make sure that triggers the brake light too.
  • The horn and the red Engine Kill Switch.
• Peek Under the Seat: Ask the seller to pop the pillion/rider seat off. Look at the battery terminals. If you see a bird’s nest of electrical tape, twisted bare wires, or cheap crimps from someone installing aftermarket lights or heated grips, be very cautious.

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Popular LAMS Model Buying Guides

Looking at a specific learner bike? Check out our model-specific fault guides:

• Yamaha YZF-R3 & MT-03 Common Problems & Buying Guide
• Kawasaki Ninja 400 & Z400 Common Problems & Buying Guide
• Print/Download the Free A4 Motorcycle Inspection Checklist

Before You Ride or Buy

This guide is not a diagnosis, LAMS approval, roadworthiness certificate or guarantee of condition. Arrange an independent motorcycle inspection. Keep the engine off for physical driveline checks and keep hands away from moving parts. Never touch hot components or lift a bike without suitable equipment and competence. Check the exact variant against your state or territory’s approved list; NSW’s LAMS guidance is one starting point, not a substitute for local rules. Check Australian recall notices and VIN-specific dealer records. PPSR reports the information returned at the search time, not ownership, mechanical condition or completed recall repairs.